I agree that this was richly written. He has a poetry in his use of language that is excellent.
But was the wine really that good?
Well, that's hard to say. I'm a very minor, beginning winehead. I've learned that yes, sometimes the difference between two different vintages can be illogically enormous -- while one can be dry, light and aromatic, its kin from two years later on the same vines can taste like soured grape Kool-Aid. Obviously, the 47 Cheval's reputation comes from somewhere and its greatness is acknowledged by wine experts. Having said that, did the author taste the wine, or did he taste its reputation -- would the '47 still be the best wine he ever tasted if he hadn't known he was drinking the famous '47 Cheval?
When I was in my 20s I dated a woman who's beauty and demeanor had captivated me since I was in high school. You know what? She wasn't as great as her reputation. I hope I'm wrong, but there's no way to know without spending several thousand I don't have to crack a bottle of the stuff.