Surely it can't be that hard to install a wood burning stove in a 70 year old farm house, can it?

I wouldn't necessarily need a hearth and all that. Don't they manufacture synthetic mats that are heat resistant? And if I put it far enough away from the wall, I wouldn't have to worry about the... well, wall.

The finesse is all in the piping. I need that guy from Ask This Old House. No, not him. I mean the one with all the plumbing doodads. He's bald. And Italian. (I think.)

He's Richard Trethewey, and he's not that bald. He's balding. Baldish.

I am absolutely positive there is a manufactured somethingorother that would be able to bring the wood burner up to code without pulling a Proenneke.

Let me do some digging. The duct work should be easy.

He's bald! Like you!!!

Here's the thing [trying not to sound hysterical]: The asking price dropped again. Almost another 10%. Somebody's trying to tell me something.

I've snooped around the internet, and there appears to be such a thing.

Anyways, I have butterflies in my stomach. Don't know what to do.

Did you know that Monarch Butterflies fly THOUSANDS of miles to go home every year???

Hmmmm.... think about it.

He's just thinning on top and maybe a little down the sides, back, and front.

After some of the replies you got viz the Alaska Wilderness cabin video, I considered saying this to you there but I forgot, and then something came up, and then I forgot again.

My Proenneke post wasn't a suggestion that you vanish into the great beyond like Dick did, but was intended remind you that you can do whatever the fuck you want to do. If you decide you don't like it, you can always change your mind.

Another 10%?

Ya know, at a certain point those pigs become our friends, just like those butterflies.

HERE not sure if it's helpful, but maybe you can link your way around and get some answers.

Set stove up on a raised floor of fire brick: sealed with no spaces for embers to drop down in cracks. Make sure side and front free space clearances are to spec. Put a steel reflector at clearance on the back wall. Make sure wall penetrations are double-walled and flashed appropriately. Do not exceed two 90 degree bends. Make sure flue pipe exceeds past top roof ridge. Consider spark arrestor.

Get it cleaned ever year.

Keep a chimney fire kit handy.

Use your stove properly including how to avoid creosote.

Have appropriate fire extinguishers and detectors.

Enjoy

Ideally I'd like to put a stove in the middle of the "living" room, set it on a thick piece of, what, reinforced tile? Caste iron? And run the flashing up straight into the ceiling and into an upstairs "bedroom", and out the roof.

Eliminates the need for any wall heat protection, and warms the upstairs (a little). Probably would cost a fortune, but I bet if 2 of my brothers helped, we could pull it off. Both have a rich history of evading "building codes".

Add the fact that this place is out in the middle of nowhere, and everybody wins. (Especially when I burn the place down accidentally and have to move into one of the barns.)

Fun to think about, though.

Bricks are the best base. They also make special bases probably out of kevlar or something. Screw it, use the hood from a 72 f150.

Are you proposing a hot exposed pipe running up through the bedroom? Really? You must not have any young children, or sleepwalk, or drink to excess.

That proposal sounds about as far from code as one can get.

In any case, get a CO alarm then.

As for you and your brothers doing the roof penetration, I hope at least one of you is a pro. Otherwise buy a nice big pail to put underneath the leak.

By the way, is this your home? Bug-out hideout? Hunting camp? or what?