The Montreal-New York Bagel Divergence
by
maximum668
11/17/2008, 6:49 PM #
One aspect of the history of the bagel in North America you do not address is the significant differences in the type of bagel that evolved in different locales. As a native Montrealer who lived for a time in New York, this issue is one of great import. Montrealers are as a rule positively snobbish and xenophobic when it comes to bagels. We look down on the pudgy, dense and bland New York "bagel," which we (rightly) regard as vastly inferior to the skinnier, fluffier and slightly sweet-tasting Montreal bagel, boiled in water infused with a hint of honey and cooked as a rule in a wood-burning oven (unlike most New York bagels, you can actually thread Montreal bagels on a stick or a string, whereas in many New York bagels the centre -- yes, centre -- is scarcely more than a pinched pinhole).
We not only prefer these bagels; we are convinced that any New Yorker who had the privilege of trying one would automatically agree and forever renounce the imposter that has been foisted upon them. And we have some proof to back us up: until recently, Montreal bagels were largely confined to Montreal. Other Canadians who were likewise forced for years to accept the roll-with-a-hole New York form of bagel imported Montreal-style bagels with a vengeance; today, Montreal-style bagels rule in Toronto as well as where I now live, in nation's capital of Ottawa. There are only a handful of locations at which true Montreal-style bagels can be purchased in Ottawa (since they defy industriual production), but those who want real bagels will routinely drive significant distances within the city to buy the Montreal-style bagel, eschewing the doughy knock-off that can be bought at the local grocery store a short walk away.
What accounts for the different varieties within North America? One explanation I have heard is that New York was initially populated by central European (mainly German) Jews, whereas Montreal's Jewish population is largely of Eastern European extraction, and that these groups of immigrants brought with them their different styles of bagels. This is similar to the explanation offered for the differences in Canadian versus American beer: whereas beer in Canada was introduced by English and Scottish brewers of ale, the American tradition of beer derives largely from the German/central European pilsner. There again, I am afraid to say we got it right.
Did I mention we also have universal healthcare?
Well, at least you didn't inherit your bagels from England...