don't fool around with bagels
by
kalaresh
11/14/2008, 11:14 AM #
Next time you encounter one of those traif ham-on-bagel breakfast sandwiches on a deli menu (or, even worse, an actual bacon bagel, baked with bits of cloven-hoofed meat inside the dough, which I was offered for breakfast in Minnesota) consider the fact that bagels are the traditional bread served at Jewish funerals, along with other round foods such as eggs and lentils, representing the circle of life. This is not a casual food.
Having said that, however, I have to say that here in New York it is still hard to find a good bagel. Everybody loves H & H, but they're far too sweet and soft to stand up to lox: a bagel should be so hard and chewy it should make your jaw throb, even fresh out of the oven. Most of the bagels generally available are way too big and doughy. If you throw a bagel at someone, it should cause injury. At this point the best of a mediocre lot are the bagels sold at Kossar's Bialys on Grand St, Times Square Bagels on 44th (the reincarnation of the late lamented Columbia Bagels), and the mini-bagels at Brooklyn Bagel Company (the regular size are way too big and puffy). But you're probably better off boiling and baking your own.