Re: the food press and $$
by
camelot
04/26/2008, 12:34 AM #
I am glad someone else spoke up about this matter. As a food journalist and independent scholar, who spent a long time on the staff of a noted daily newspaper, I agree with the writer of this response.
The original piece gives a hugely oversimplfied description of the food press, and what it does, and why. Of course, an emphasis on high-tone food and cooking exists in many places, but it does so to varying degrees from newspaper to newspaper, and magazine to magazine, and would rarely be the publication's entire food section mandate. Even in the New York Times, there are many recipes that are not wildly
costly.
It is true that the once to-be-expected emphasis on eating more economically (yes, in earlier times one of the hallmarks of food writing in America), has faded. But the reasons for that are socially complex. And it
is going to be very interesting to see, whether with the financial
crises that are upon us, newspapers and magazines feel they again have to turn to articles that instruct the cook in how to economize, and also if they turn to running budget-conscious food columns again.
I refer here to columns actually labeled as such and pitched to the public that way.
The problem is that such writing is practical, and worthwhile, but not "sexy," and it is sexy (in
the broad sense) that sells newspapers--and, in the face of competition from the Internet, newspapers and magazines need
desperately to sell.
We often hear that people read cookbooks for pleasure, but don't necessarily take them to the stove. I am sure that is equally true for some of the more tony recipe suggestions in the food sections. (A similar situation exists with fashion. We see models wearing outfits, outre to beautiful, that very few could afford, but still there is pleasure in watching the models take those dresses down the runway.Then we go out and buy ready to wear.)
Whether food pages respond to the failing economy with more dreams or with a good dose of reality, remains to be seen. But whatever they do, they will have a sense of responsibility to the reader, of what the reader wants, in mind. They always do. They have to.