I wonder if the author of the mead article has tried and of the Meadovina meads. I wouldn't be surprised if the answer is no, although that's not a critique of the author, but a comment on the unfortunate scarcity of Meadovina. I was unable to even find the apiary's meads in Denver in a rather large store even though Niwot (Meadovina's home) is just a short drive from Denver. The meadery has a rather large range of meads from the rich, densely sweet Sweet Melissa (an amazing mead on the level of the Polish mead Apis Jadwiga in my opinion) to all sorts of dry, off-dry, and semi-sweet meads as well as versions with subtle additions of fruit to add both acid and complexity, although the fruit is typically hard to locate.
I've never been impressed with the Redstone Meads or many others. They're good, but they've always seemed lacking. I truly enjoy many of the Meadovina labels. Unfortunately my sister, who until recently lived in Denver and would drive out to Niwot to pick up mixed cases for me, has moved back to Georgia and I've lost my connection.