Hitchens' rant was like a cathartic release for me...the kind that happens when someone else articulates a privately-held sentiment that you have long concealed for fear of embarassment or social censure.

Restaurant protocol in the US is indeed appalling. Absolutely awful. This came to my notice when I spent two years in France and I am continually reminded of the contrast whenever I set foot in a food establishment. Waiters here pride themselves on "good service" when they are simply being rude by either 1) taking your plate away too soon or 2) asking constantly if everything is ok. Their "hospitality" feels overbearing and invasive most of the time. You want to say "shut up, I will tell you if I need something."

Waiters also eagerly do their part to contribute to the national obesity epidemic by pushing appetizers, desserts, and alcoholic beverages on passive consumers with shameless persistence.

I wish the tip were included in the price of the meal as it is in France (service compris), and we could just be done with the current system of tip-based incentives for quality restaurant service.